The Mekong River is the primary home of the Phaya Naga. Thai cities often have “mascots”, and the mascot of Nong Khai is clearly the Phaya Naga. A pair of really excellent Phaya Naga welcome you to the city (above).
A pair of equally outstanding, and very large, Phaya Naga greet you at the Mekong River (below).
A big draw for Nong Khai is the Naga Fireball Festival held during Buddhist Lent at the end of October, when Naga fireballs are said to be most common. Fireballs resembling an orange sun, varying in size from sparks to basketball sized orbs, rise from the Mekong River to as high as hundreds of feet into the sky.
Naga fireballs are believed by some to be exhaled by Phaya Naga. I wish I had attended the festival, in part because I find it surprising that it seems to include fireworks, suggesting a lack of concern with really knowing what you’re seeing. Thai people do love the supernatural, and love seeing Naga fireballs during the festival.
The video below examines the scientific and supernatural views on the Naga fireball phenomenon.
Sala Kaew Ku is Nong Khai’s other big draw. The most photographed sculpture at Sala Kaew Ku is probably Sulilat’s unique, and enormous, take on the Naga Buddha.
Along the Mekong River there are all forms of Phaya Naga, like the ones that top the lamp posts.
Phaya Naga also adorn the fence along the river.
Looking across the Mekong into Laos you can see a fairly nice temple complex.
You can also see a number of houses. They look similar to houses in northern Thailand.
There are house boats along the Thai side of the river.
The Thai-Lao Friendship bridge was largely funded by a gift to the Lao government from the Australian government. The picture below shows the bridge in the distance, and also some fairly large house boats.
Several temples are among the buildings lining the Thai side of the river.
They include a Chinese style temple.
Nong Khai has an aquarium that features some of the surprisingly large fish found in the Mekong River.
It’s a small aquarium, but it does feature a shark tunnel. This is the first I’ve seen, so I can’t offer a comparison. Flash photography is prohibited in the aquarium, but I was able to shoot video.
Please enjoy the full gallery of 16 pictures below.
Below is the only depiction I’ve seen of Phra Mae Thorani in which she is not wringing water from her hair to protect the Buddha. In this sculpture she is coming to the aid of humans in a boat.
Bunleua Sulilat built his first sculpture garden, Buddha Park, near Vientiane, Laos , in 1958. He fled across the Mekong River into Thailand in fear of the political climate of Laos after the 1975 communist revolution, and in 1978 began work on “The Hall of Kaew Ku”, which would be more extravagant and feature larger statues than his earlier park. The newer park is located near Nong Khai, Thailand.
Pics above and below show the gate to a sort of small courtyard filled with mostly more life-sized statues.
Below is a look inside the courtyard.
Sulilat’s personality and sculpture and his blend of Buddhism and Hinduism attracted followers, and the sculpture park became the center of a religious sect. Followers gave him the title Luang Pu, usually reserved for monks.
Both sculpture parks were built by untrained volunteers working for free. Sulilat was wildly popular among his followers, but the locals thought he was insane.
The Sala Kaew Ku pavilion building has shrines/temples on 3 floors, and it seems appropriate that they in the “collection of Buddhas and other effigies” style. Among them are many pictures of Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat.
Sulilat fell from one of his huge sculptures and his health deteriorated until his death in 1996. His mummified body is enshrined on the 3rd floor.
Large windows on the 3rd floor offer a nice view over the park.
Please enjoy the full gallery of 40 pictures below.
Wat Kham Chanot is a Buddhist temple that is very focused on worship of Phaya Naga. It is located in Kham Chanot forest, believed to be the border between the human world and the netherworld. Both forest and temple are located on an island in Kut Kham, a marshy lake in which a Phaya Naga is said to live.
The temple complex has expanded off of the island, and includes a large standing Buddha and a permanent country market.
Among the many items for sale are offerings to the Phaya Naga. The likenesses below are mostly constructed of folded banana or coconut leaves. The products of this art vary greatly, mostly in the quality of the heads. These are among the best I’ve seen.
Of course there are also temple buildings adorned with Phaya Naga.
The bridge to the island was once very small. The new one is a fairly recent improvement. The entrance is flanked by a pair of 7-headed Phaya Naga.
Wat Kham Chanot is usually busy, so there is a police presence. At the entrance to the bridge an officer told me to remove my hat, suggesting that the entire island is considered a temple. An earlier clue that I had missed was that we had removed our shoes.
The bodies of the Phaya Naga extend along the entire length of the bridge, all the way to the island.
Golden frogs can be seen in the marsh on either side of the bridge.
Located right at the end of the bridge, the shrine on the right, below, had a constant line of people passing through. We didn’t wait in that line.
Phaya Naga can take human form, like the one seated on the altar below. Note the many offerings.
Phaya Naga sometimes appear with the upper body of a man or woman and the lower body of a snake – or in the case of the figures below, upper bodies of both humans and numerous (or multi-headed) serpent-form Phaya Naga.
The font below is said to flow from a spring. People anointed themselves with the water.
The many small shrines are built among some really cool old trees.
Paya Naga are also said to live in the Mekong River and estuaries. People of Laos and Thailand attribute the naga fireball phenomenon to Phaya Naga, along with standing waves, damage to vehicles and objects, and serpentine tracks that are frequently found. Scientists compare these and sightings of Phaya Naga with those of bigfoot and the Loch Ness monster.
“Naga fireballs, also known as bung fai paya nak or Mekong lights, are a phenomenon said to be often seen on the Mekong River. Glowing balls are alleged to naturally rise from the water high into the air. The balls are said to be reddish and to range in size from smaller sparkles up to the size of basketballs. They quickly rise up to a couple of hundred metres before disappearing. The number of fireballs reported varies between tens and thousands per night.” – Wikipedia
Recently a festival was held on the Mekong River. On TV I saw fireworks being launched from underwater to simulate naga fireballs. This is something I’ll try to learn more about.
Off of the island we visited a variety of small shrines, like the one below to some respected and deceased monk.
There were a number of large gongs available, and visitors could try various approaches to getting interesting sounds from them.
There are many ghost stories and hauntings associated with Wat Kham Chanot. Phaha Naga are said to sometimes go to the houses of people near the temple when they need something. Although people ask them for favors, they are very afraid of them.
After leaving the busy Wat Kham Chanot we stopped by an unfinished temple populated only by workers.
I find this temple exceptionally beautiful, and I like the open air design. There is something vaguely Nordic about it.
These Phaya Naga are some of the coolest I’ve seen, and I couldn’t resist using them as the featured picture for this post, in spite of the fact that they are not found at Wat Kham Chanot.
The inside too is simple and beautiful.
This temple has a paddock for deer. Wat Kham Chanot is said to have a small zoo of turtles, but I didn’t see that.
Please enjoy the full gallery of 20 pictures below.
Steppin' the miles, enjoying the view, bringing it all to you.